Tuesday 19 August 2014

Lush Life

Frankie loves the clink of ice in well-filled glasses

Time magazine, August 1955.




There are more than several Classic Bourbon Cocktails, with sub-genres such as HighballsCollins and Sours; the following drinks are undoubtedly amongst the aristocrats of good cheer. 


Manhattan

                                   2     measures of Rye/Bourbon or Tennessee Whiskey
                                 1/2   measure of Sweet (Red) Vermouth
                                 2-3   dashes of Angustura Bitters
                                   1     Maraschino cherry

Pour the liquid ingredients into a mixing glass filled with ice. Stir well, ensuring the drink is properly blended and chilled and then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with the cherry before presenting. Several recipes suggest using orange bitters rather than Angustura and employing a strip of orange zest as an additional garnish. A 4-1 Manhattan (with double the whiskey) eschews orange or cherry in favour of a lemon peel twist, while a Dry Manhattan  and is simply chilled whiskey and  dry (white) vermouth sans any garnish.

At one time dubbed the King of Cocktails, this smart aperitif was at one point second only to the Martini as America's most widely sipped pre-dinner drink. One popular myth about this cocktail was that it was originated in New York's Manhattan Club sometime in the 1870's at a party hosted by Winston Churchill's mother Jenny, Lady Randolph Churchill. Combinations of bourbon and vermouth however were already popular in at least one Broadway bar a decade earlier.

Dry Manhattans were popular with all the members of The Rat Pack (excusing Joey of course) and Dean Martin in particular enjoyed them. There is also a story involving Sinatra that appears in several biographies that involves him arriving at a hotel in San Francisco and placing an order with room service for 88 Manhattans. Not that he was particularly thirsty, but he was annoyed that RKO had insisted he attend a premiere for a film of his that was not being particularly well received. He exacted revenge by abusing RKO's expense account - the trays full of cocktails stayed on trolleys in the hallway; he didn't even bother to drink one. Instead he took an entourage of 22 people to four different nightclubs; eventually returning to his room at 7am. Everything was charged to RKO. Sinatra never could stand being told what to do.





  

Saturday 9 August 2014

36 Drinks a Day


True Story:
Frank Sinatra goes to visit a new doctor, the doctor asks about his alcohol intake - roughly how much does he consume? Sinatra answers immediately, unblinking: I have thirty-six drinks a day The doctor asks him to be serious, Frank explains - seriously - that he drinks one bottle of Jack Daniel's every day and that he figures there are about 36 shots per bottle. The scandalised doctor asks him how he feels in the mornings. I don't know, says Frank, I'm never up in the morning and I'm not sure you're the doctor for me.

  
Throughout his adult life Frank Sinatra had an almost amniotic relationship with liquor. A photograph that amused him greatly was the one mocked-up by friend and professional Hollywood snapper Phil Stern. It featured a loose-limbed Sinatra floating in a jar on a shelf at Harvard Medical Centre. The label read:
Speciman: F. SINATRA
 Solution: J. DANIEL'S
  
 I don't drink a lot, but then again I don't drink a little was how he sometimes answered questions about his consumption; but he undoubtedly lived the LUSH LIFE.

The Sands late night and both the audience and performers are joyfully partaking of what is considered by all as a mothery gas - what James Wolcott described as the Mount Rushmore of men having fun - the Rat Pack onstage . The Leader slows down the action in order to mock-berate his Second-in-Command. 

Frank:  Say, I'd like to talk to you for a few minutes.
Dean:   Why - am I in town?
Frank:   Listen, I wanna talk to you about your drinking.
Dean:   What happened, I miss a round/
Frank:   No, you didn't miss a round, I wanna talk to you about the amount you drink.
              You know what they're saying about you?
Dean:   And how about you?
Frank:   Me?
Dean:   Yeah you - you shoot a pretty good stick with that bottle yourself.
Frank:   Ah - but I don't inhale.

Ah - but he most obviously did, more than frequently and often to excess.

Although Dean played up his boozehound reputation in public, in real life Sinatra always had the more ferocious appetites.

The Sands again, this time Sinatra performing solo; he tells the audience:

               The question most asked of me is - Does Dean Martin really drink?
                Well, I can attest to to that fact. He's a drunk. He is an absolutely
                unqualified drunk, and if we ever develop an Olympic Drinking Team
                - he's gonna be Coach.

Playacting aside, Sinatra would boast in company - I spill more than he drinks - that's an actuality. Years later it was Frank who sported the blue baseball jacket embossed with the legend

Coach of the U.S. Drinking Team


                              
           








His drinking  imbued his whole life with a booze glow. The taking of alcohol was integral not just to his lifestyle but also his art. This was a man who was regarded by many as the Voice of the Twentieth Century. In his lifetime he structured a career that spanned six decades; he became a cultural icon, movie star, business man and playboy, but above all he created a uniquely substantial body of recorded work: something like 18,000 recordings, some of which are lauded as performances of unparalled textual and emotional depth. 

Big claims are made on his behalf - that he could raise pop artistry to a transcendent level. That his mastery of phrasing, rhythm, dynamics, and above all - inerpretation, helped define how vocalists came to approach a song. That he changed not only how songs were performed, but which songs were performed - perfecting the notion of The Great American Songbook and creating definitive versions of songs that became regarded as classics.

He was by no means a modest man, yet he preferred a much simpler description of what he did - he was, he often insisted, a Saloon Singer. Towards the end, after a lifetime's dedication to the Thirsty Muse, he ammended his title slightly and became The Last Saloon Singer - and maybe he was. Forget maybe.

SO........
This blog is dedicated to the Last Saloon Singer and here you will find accounts of how to properly construct, present and consume some of the drinks he enjoyed himself. I've researched and am researching his Drinking Buddies, collected and am collecting Drunk Stories, I've looked up some of his favourite Watering Holes (from straight up Saloons like Toot Shor's or Jilly's to more fancy hang-outs like The Stork Club or Chasen's) and have an on-going mission to study some of the many drink-related rituals and etiquette he followed or inspired. All of it in order that you, the listener, with a knowledge of such things - may come to achieve (late at night with a glass in hand and one of his records playing) something close to Frank-like status. Selfless I know, you can thank me later.


FIRST PRINCIPLES


   

He's the boy
Who wrote all the manuals
On the joys
Of consuming Daniel's

Dean Martin sang the above to the tune of Your'e the Top (lyrics ammended by Sammy Cahn) at a private Birthday bash held for Sinatra at Chasen's. Everyone there was aware of Frank's deep devotion to the drink he sometimes referred to as the Black Ass of Jack Daniel. One of his favourite sobriquets amongst friends was Jack Daniel's Original Test Pilot, less specifically the Washington Post dubbed him The Bourbon Baritone.

He was first introduced to JD by Jackie Gleason in a bar off Broadway in the early 40's, as a callow youth he had toyed with the occasional malt whiskey in an attempt to appear sophisticated, this had not suited him - but after sipping Jack he was instantly smitten; and from that moment forth a bottle (more likely several) was always close at hand. Jack Daniel's inspired a devotion that most of the women in his life would have envied. He had blazers with the Jack Daniel's crest on the breast pocket, flags with the insignia were flown outside various residences, his personal bar was always plentifully stocked and cases were on standby in the holds of his private jets. Jack Daniel's repaid the compliment by naming him as one of their Tennessee Squires - an elite group of aficionados (which also included Paul Newman, Elizabeth Taylor and J. Edgar Hoover) who were all granted their own plot of land on the original distillery site. The others received a square foot but Sinatra was gifted a full acre - he eventually owned millions of dollars of real estate; but that single plot was priceless to him.

HOW SINATRA TOOK HIS

In an Old Fashioned Glass
(a squat tumbler, named in honour of the cocktail, with a capacity of 8-12 0z.)
With a splash of branch water
(I'm thirsty not dirty, he once reprimanded an over-enthusiastic bartender)
Just one or two rocks of ice
(I'm drinking, not skating)
and preferably a napkin.



Some Toasts:

Here's to the confusion of our enemies.

Absent friends - fuck 'em.

Drink up and be somebody.

May you live to be a 100 and may the last voice you hear be mine.